(800) 840-4741

Blade Selection Guide for Lumber and Pallet Saws

The right blade cuts cleaner, lasts longer, and costs less per cut. The wrong blade burns through material, dulls fast, and leaves ragged edges that require rework. This guide covers blade diameter, tooth count, tooth geometry, and material so you can match the blade to the job.

Why Blade Selection Matters

Blades are not all the same. A blade that works great for rough-cutting pallet stock will perform poorly on finish trim work, and vice versa. Running the wrong blade wastes money three ways: you replace it sooner, you spend more time on rework, and your saw works harder than it needs to.

Three things determine the right blade for your operation: what you are cutting (species, moisture content, dimensions), what machine you are running (chop saw, trim saw, notcher, or log saw), and what kind of cut you need (rough crosscut, finish cut, rip, or notch).

Blade Diameter

Blade diameter must match your saw's arbor size and maximum blade capacity. This is not a suggestion — running a blade that exceeds the saw's rated capacity is dangerous.

Common blade sizes for industrial chop saws in lumber and pallet operations are 16-inch, 22-inch, 30-inch, and 32-inch. Here is how they line up with Morgan's saw line:

  • Baby Chop Saw: 16-inch blade
  • Standard and Automated Chop Saws: 22-inch blade
  • Log Saw: 32-inch blade

Running a blade that is too large for the saw is a safety hazard. Running one that is too small wastes cut capacity — you will not be able to cut the full material depth the saw was designed for. Use the blade diameter specified for your machine.

Tooth Count (Number of Teeth)

The number of teeth on a blade determines the tradeoff between cut speed and cut quality.

  • Fewer teeth = faster cut, rougher finish. Better for thick or hard material where you need to remove a lot of material quickly.
  • More teeth = slower cut, smoother finish. Better for thin material and finish cuts where edge quality matters.

Tooth count recommendations:

  • Pallet production (rough lumber crosscutting): 24–40 teeth on a 22-inch blade
  • Trim saws (finish cuts): 60–80 teeth

A good rule of thumb: at least three teeth should be in the material at all times during the cut. Fewer than that and the blade will grab and chatter. More than that and the gullets between teeth will not have enough room to clear chips, leading to heat buildup and burning.

Tooth Geometry

Tooth geometry — the shape and grind of each tooth — determines how the blade engages the material. The three most common types for wood cutting:

ATB (Alternate Top Bevel)

Teeth alternate between left and right bevel angles. This is the most versatile tooth style and the most common for chop saws cutting lumber. It shears across the grain cleanly and produces good crosscuts in both hardwood and softwood. For most pallet and lumber chop saw applications, ATB is the right choice.

FTG (Flat Top Grind)

All teeth are flat across the top. This is an aggressive geometry designed for ripping — cutting with the grain. Used on rip saws, gang saws, and notchers where fast material removal matters more than surface finish.

TCG (Triple Chip Grind)

Alternates between a flat-topped raking tooth and a chamfered scoring tooth. Designed for hard materials, treated lumber, laminates, and dense panel products. Overkill for most pallet work, but useful if you are cutting a lot of treated or engineered material.

Blade Material

Carbide-tipped blades are the standard for industrial wood cutting. The carbide tips hold an edge 10 to 20 times longer than steel, which means fewer blade changes and a lower cost per cut over the life of the blade.

Steel blades are cheaper up front but dull fast. If you are running production, the cost of frequent blade changes and rework from dull cuts eats the upfront savings quickly. Steel blades only make sense for occasional, light-duty use.

Not all carbide is equal. Industrial-grade carbide — like what Morgan supplies on its blades — has a finer grain structure that holds up better in hardwood and high-volume cutting. Cheaper carbide tips coarsen faster and chip under heavy load. If you are cutting hardwood pallet stock all day, blade quality directly affects your cost per cut.

Matching Blade to Machine Type

Different machines require different blades. Here is a quick reference for matching blade specifications to machine type in pallet and lumber operations.

Chop Saws (crosscutting)

22-inch ATB blade, 24–40 teeth, carbide-tipped. This is the standard setup for production crosscutting of pallet lumber and timbers.

Trim Saws (inline trimming)

10–14-inch blade, 60–80 teeth. ATB for standard lumber, TCG if you are cutting treated or laminated material. Higher tooth count for cleaner finish on trim cuts.

Notchers (notching stringers)

Blade sized to the notcher head. FTG geometry for aggressive material removal. The flat-top grind powers through notching cuts where you need to remove material fast.

Log Saws (large diameter)

30–32-inch blade with fewer teeth for deep cuts in green lumber. The larger diameter gives you the cut depth needed for small logs, and fewer teeth keep the cut fast in wet, dense material.

When to Replace a Blade

Running a dull blade costs more than replacing it. Dull blades leave burn marks on the cut face, require more feed pressure (which is harder on the saw), and produce rough cuts that may need rework or rejection.

  • Chipped or missing carbide tips — replace the blade immediately. A damaged tip will produce poor cuts and can damage the material or the saw.
  • Gradual dulling — a carbide blade can typically be sharpened 3–5 times before it needs replacement. Sharpening costs $15–25 per blade versus $80–200 for a new blade.
  • Keep a sharp spare on hand. When the blade on the saw dulls, swap it for the spare and send the dull one for sharpening. This way you are never down waiting for a blade.

The cheapest time to change a blade is before it gets so dull that it starts causing problems. Set a schedule based on your production volume and stick to it.

Blade Maintenance Tips

A few minutes of maintenance extends blade life and keeps cuts clean. Here is what to do.

  • Clean pitch buildup with blade cleaner after every 4–8 hours of use. Pitch buildup increases friction and heat, which dulls the blade faster and can cause burning on the cut face.
  • Store blades flat or hanging on a peg. Never stack blades on top of each other. The teeth will chip from contact with the blade above or below.
  • Check arbor nut tightness before each shift. A loose arbor nut causes vibration, which affects cut quality and can damage both the blade and the saw's bearings over time.
  • Inspect for cracks around the arbor hole monthly. Cracks in the plate are a safety hazard — the blade can fail catastrophically at speed. If you see a crack, take the blade out of service immediately.

Call (800) 840-4741 or Contact us to learn more